Stop dissing Superwash Yarn - an extensive dive into Superwash Yarn

Recently, there has been a massive backlash regarding super-wash yarn on social media. I came across a post which went as far as saying that buying superwash yarn is the same as buying acrylic yarn, and my head just exploded by the bunch of half truths spread in that reel. And all the people jumped on that wagon and patting person on their back for speaking 'the truth'.

It got me so frustrated that I decided I needed to write as much as possible in detail about Super-wash Wool to avoid misunderstandings about this type of yarn and give you the full picture.

As much as I appreciate that people are more cautious about what they buy and think about the environment, there must be a clear understanding of why and how you decide which yarn is appropriate and most suited to your needs.

There is no villain. Both Super-wash and Untreated Yarn have their place in the market.

I have to stress, that I care about the environment greatly. To back up this statement, I graduated from Sheffield Hallam University where I studied Environmental Architecture and Technology.  Then I went on and talked my partner's ear of about zero waste shops until he woke up on day and decided he will be the one to open a zero waste shop here in Sheffield, which is now in its 8th year and thriving. We also own an allotment and grow our own fruit and veg. We are heavily into composting our waste.

I have been dyeing yarn (both superwash and non-superwash) for almost 10  years now and I try to protect the environment through the right practices as well. From paying a recycling company to collect all my plastic bags I receive material in, which is then made into outdoor furniture, to composting all cardboard, reusing the water and finding ways to use the least water possible for dyeing.

But enough about me, here is what you need to know about Superwash Yarn:

Superwash Yarn is called superwash because it can be washed in the washing machine and rinsed and spin cycle. It is also suitable for people who are allergic to untreated wool and can't stand the itchiness of it. It is also a great option for garments which need to be machine washed often - for children, for clothes which get dirty often. Or for people with physical impairment who find hand washing difficult. 

Also, only with superwash yarn you can create the most crisp speckles and bright and neon colours. Superwash wool has a higher longevity to non superwash yarn and also biodegrades faster than non superwash yarn. See the links to the study below.

It DOES NOT contains microfibres which come from synthetic materials such as acrylic.

Is it chemically treated?

Yes, but this is not the right question. The right question is WHERE and HOW it is chemically treated.

Most super-wash wool uses one of these methods:

1️⃣ Chlorine + resin coating (most common)

• Wool is lightly treated with chlorine to reduce the fibre scales to reduce felting

• Then a very thin (microscopic amount) polymer resin coating (often nylon-based) is applied, which smoothes the scales. It is important to note that the polyamide resin used in the machine-wash treatment for wool is very different from common commercial polyamides. 

• Resin used by my supplier biodegrades very quickly in composting and marine environments
• This stops fibres locking together → prevents felting in the wash.
• Read the study paper from 2024 here:

  https://www.wool.com/globalassets/wool/attachments/biodegradation-behavior-of-wool-and-other-textile-fibers-in-aerobic-composting-conditions.pdf

  https://www.wool.com/news-events/news/wool-readily-biodegrades-in-marine-environments/

If you don't want to read the whole study, the short extract here:

'The treatment that makes wool machine-washable (the application of a thin polyamide film to the fibre surfaces) actually caused the wool to biodegrade more rapidly than untreated wool. The scientists believe this is probably because the treatment process removes some of the fibre’s cuticle (its armour plating), rendering it more susceptible to microbial degradation. It is important to note that the polyamide resin used in the machine-wash treatment for wool is very different from common commercial polyamides.

“Significantly, the scientists did not detect any formation of microplastic polyamide fragments resulting from the biodegradation of machine-washable wool,” Angus said.

Based on observations from soil biodegradation, the scientists expect that over a relatively short time wool will biodegrade completely in the marine environment. The rate of biodegradation for untreated wool is likely to increase to be similar to that of machine-washable wool once its cuticle is broken down.'

Most of the big British undyed yarn suppliers nowadays make sure that they comply with strict environmental rules when applying a super-wash treatment. My supplier specifically uses only EU mills which have the strictest laws about by-products which must be removed from the water before it is discharged into water systems. The mill by my supplier is accredited with the EU Flower and OEKO-TEX 100 and has a state of the art treatment plant. 

https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/our-standards/oeko-tex-standard-100/

2️⃣ Scale-removal only (less common)

• Some newer eco processes remove scales without resin coating, but with enzymes.

• Marketed as “eco super-wash” or chlorine-free.

• Still real wool fibre underneath.
  

• ✔ Machine washable.

Bottom Line and  Summary

1. Superwash yarn has its place in the market:

-  for people allergic to untreated wool. ( yes, alpaca is a solution for allergic people, but it does have similar elasticity to superwash yarn - meaning, it WILL stretch as well),

- for people who like bright, speckled yarn, 

- for garments which need to be washed on a regular basis in the washing machine

- for people who don't have time (or will) to hand wash yarn

      2. Superwash is NOT acrylic - whoever says that, is misinformed - ACRYLIC yarn is made from PETROLEUM, and does not biodegrade in over 40 years if put to landfill. Superwash yarn biodegrades within 180 days and does not leave microplastics in the environment. 

      3. Superwash yarn is slightly less breathable than untreated wool and doesn't absorb water as well as untreated wool

     4. Because wool absorbs moisture vapour:

• Non-superwash often feels warmer and more breathable.

• Superwash can feel cooler and smoother next to skin.

      5. If you care about the environment and still want to buy super-wash yarn, check with the seller you want the yarn from, where is their yarn chemically treated to be super-washed. 

Please, stop suggesting to people to buy ACRYLIC instead of SUPERWASH yarn, these are two completely different yarns made from different materials, because:

a) you are misleading people

b) you are contributing to the landfill problem by diverting people to buy petroleum yarn

c) you are hurting small businesses such as independent yarn dyers like myself (as we don't already have enough hard time)

Superwash Wool is still natural protein fibre, just with minor treatment to change its properties to be washable in a washing machine and smoother against skin. 

I offer both superwash and non-superwash yarns because I want to make sure everyone gets what they look for. Neither is better nor worse than the other. They are just different and serve a different purpose.